Photo taken by Michael DeRenzo ’26 at a protest in Seoul.
By Michael DeRenzo, Guest Columnist
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA — Maybe this was meant to be. There have been many places I have dreamed of studying abroad. The historical and religious aura surrounding Rome, Italy. The dreamy skies of Yaoundé, Cameroon. Perhaps even the Pho and Banh Mi in Vietnam. At one point, I was even interested in studying abroad in my country of Poland despite it not even having an affiliated program with Gettysburg.
In a panic choice, I ended up choosing Seoul, South Korea as a last-minute effort to finally decide on where I should go. In the back of my mind, as I am an international and global studies major, I was interested in the contentious relationship between South Korea and its northern neighbor, both of whom claim the other is part of themselves.
I knew nothing about what others typically associate South Korea with. For instance, I don’t (and still haven’t) listened to much K-pop, nor have I seen K-dramas before despite how many times they’ve been recommended to me. It was this thought of a classic tale between two countries — separated by the most fiercely guarded border in the world — representing two ideals to represent themselves in the global political atmosphere we abide by. One is a state that is strictly authoritarian, ripe with militarism and home to a cult of personality dictatorship. The other is, in my opinion, a miracle state that seemed like a stable country.
And then came December 3 of last year. I was in my bed in Gettysburg just about to go to sleep when I saw a BBC article detailing President Yoon Suk Yeol’s declaration of martial law in the country. His reasoning, although vague and perhaps even wrong, led to severe backlash.
I will spare you the full insight of this martial law and subsequent reaction from officials and civilians alike. In short, it was a jaw-dropping moment for me. Not only was I going to embark into Seoul in a few short months, but a country seen by many as one of the most politically stable no longer was.
As I am writing this, I am fine. More than fine, actually. Seoul is drop-down gorgeous and although my mind was not on studying abroad to Korea for the longest time, I firmly believe it was the best choice I could have made. However, something feels strange in the air, and no, it’s not the air pollution here. It’s something more insidious, and, without taking sides, I believe that South Korea is now entering into a new stage of democracy that is happening in other parts of the world: a rise in what I consider a “cult of personality.”
Much unlike what other students before me had to witness, there is now an unprecedented aura of politics that is inescapable. Everybody here has a view about not only Yoon Suk Yeol, but for the future of Korea. Some that I have spoken to remind me of the far-right in the United States, where their loyalty to U.S. President Donald Trump was previously unheard of.
As I have witnessed pro-government protests, it seems that this sense of loyalty to a figure is now arising in Korea as well. In one protest I saw, both American and Korean flags were on full display; chants in favor of Yoon Suk Yeol were heard throughout the bustling neighborhoods, and people ranging from young adults to seniors were busy partaking in such protests. Koreans in favor of the government appear to view Yoon Suk Yeol as a martyr for the sake of Korea’s future. An ultra-nationalist wave is forming, and as the voices of those against the president become louder, so too do those in favor of the president have their voices louder. The same, of course, is happening in the United States. It is no longer a matter of agreeing or disagreeing on how a government should work, but rather it is a fight for what the purpose of a country even is.
Photo by Michael DeRenzo ’26
Of course, with every action there is a reaction. And surely enough, I have also witnessed staunch anti-government protests. One thing is apparent, though: everybody here is now taking a side, and it is more vocal than ever. Those in favor of the government seem to act just like how pro-Trump supporters act, in that they often chant values that used to be universally accepted. Supporters of the government will accuse opponents of many things, such as being communist, pro-North Korean and anti-South Korean. It may sound familiar to those back home. Since these protests started, Yoon Suk Yeol has been removed from office by South Korea’s Constitutional Court, but support for him remains.
The purpose of this article, then, is to reveal to those back home a simple yet significant point: a rise in political extremism is occurring, and due to what had happened on December 3, I believe being abroad in South Korea truly was the right place to study in. I originally came here to learn about the uneasy tension between the North and South, and I will come back out of the country learning an even more valuable lesson. To be able to experience such an astronomical event as it is unfolding in-person is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. To see a country like South Korea — which was thought of as extremely politically stable — become a center of a major political crisis for the actions committed by the president is simply absurd. Furthermore, these experiences that are currently unfolding have taught me another thing: what is happening in the United States is not unique to itself. This rise in ultranationalism and distancing between both sides of the political spectrum seems to be occurring in nations worldwide.
We truly are living in a special time. It may not be a pleasant time for any of us, and even less so for some, but we are nonetheless living in a time that will be emphasized in the history books. To see such nations like the U.S. and South Korea, among others, fall to a cult of personality is unbelievable. In America, it is no longer republican versus democrat, but pro- or anti-Trump. In Korea, it is no longer liberal or conservative, but pro- or anti-Yoon Suk Yeol. Everybody is taking sides for the ultimate fate of Korea, much like what is currently occurring in the United States. Does this mean Korea is doomed? Not necessarily. What it does mean, however, is that the left and the right are at each other’s throats, and precious aspects of our democracies, such as freedom and pride, are now held hostage by respective groups.
This article originally appeared on pages 16 and 17 of the No. 6 April 2025 edition of The Gettysburgian magazine
